Jennie and Devon rented a 4-door SUV to pick up Mrs Clarice Simmons Jennie’s mother at the Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino International Airport They had no choice because their sports car was too small for the three of them plus her mother’s luggage. The car rental was not a new idea. They had realized earlier that their sports car would not suffice when Jennie’s mother visited.
While Devon and Jennie’s apartment was small, it was highly organized and efficient. There was a galley style kitchen with a four chair dinette set, located in an open floor plan that flowed into the living room. There were two bathrooms, one off the living area and the second one, which was part of the master suite. There was a second room which doubled as an office and a bedroom. It came with a built-in Murphy bed. In the hallway, there was located a stacked washer and dryer. So all said and done it served their needs admirably.
Because of its small size, Devon had brought up the idea of getting a hotel room for Jennie’s mother. She immediately nixed it. Jennie said first of all her mother would never go for it, so they would just have to deal with it. Besides, it would only be for a couple of weeks. She finally added with a smile, “Just suck it up, buttercup, no sex for you for the next two weeks.”
It was actually kind of nice to have two vehicles because now, if Jennie needed to run some errands, she didn’t have to get early to take Devon to work. The more He thought about the more tempted he was to buy another SUV. Besides, it didn’t need to be a Bentley. Because there was more room for things, Jennie kept the SUV to drive while Devon continued to use the sports car.
Having spent the last six months living in and exploring Italy, Jennie knew all the best places to visit and restaurants to eat at. With her mother visiting them, all this newfound knowledge came in handy. Poor Jennie the need to show her mother everything. However, there was just too much to see. So much so that her mother finally threw in the towel, stating that she was simply worn out. “Honey, I came here to spend time with you and to help with your wedding, you don’t have to take me to every place in Italy. I am good, really.”
4 Days in Rome
Here is the itinerary that Jennie followed to show her mother Clarice Rome: Note it has been cut some, eliminating the night life and dinners out, because they were spent with Devon after he finished work.
Day 1: The Colosseum & Roman Forum + Your First Aperitivo
Start your day where it all began – in the heart of Ancient Rome.
Take the majority of the day to wrap your head around the centuries of history where this little quarter of the city played an outsized role, then spend the afternoon and evening experiencing aperitivo.
For all intents and purposes, these two sights should be grouped together. They represent similar periods in Roman history, they’re adjacent to each other, and they’re visited on the same ticket or tour.
Before or after your tour, there’s an excellent view of the Roman Forum from OUTSIDE the boundaries located here.
It’s well worth heading up and over the hill to Piazza del Campidoglio (with a replica of a famous Michelangelo statue in the middle) and Piazza Venezia, which houses the Altar of the Fatherland dedicated to Italy’s first king after unification, Vittorio Emanuele II.
The Colosseum is the massive Roman amphitheater, the most well-known (and biggest) in the world.
The structure was commissioned by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E. after the area was used as a private palace for infamous (and unpopular) Emperor Nero. It was kind of a gesture to the people that the ruling class hadn’t forgotten them.
Unfortunately, Vespasian didn’t live to see it completed. Instead, it was completed under his son Titus in 80 C.E., taking just eight years to build (which is insane when you consider that some churches take several centuries).
It’s most likely that the building, after some expansions and renovations over the years, could fit somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 spectators, though you’ll still hear numbers as high as 80,000 thrown around which most historians agree is a little aggressive.
Another misconception about the Colosseum that is mostly perpetuated by media like movies and TV shows is that the gladiatorial games were brutal, bloody, and murderous.
That’s true to an extent, but our guide reminded us that, at the end of the day, the gladiators were highly skilled professionals AND they were the property of rich people who most definitely didn’t want their assets killed.
It’s more likely that the gladiatorial battles were similar to modern-day boxing matches than the bloodbaths you’ve seen Russell Crowe participate in.
They’ve reconstructed part of the wooden floor of the arena, and below that you can see the intricate series of cages, tunnels, and staging areas where gladiators and exotic animals were kept before being brought up onto the stage using an innovative elevator system.
It’s massive, and it’s an incredible feat of human ingenuity. I, Matt, have done the Colosseum four different times now, and each time my jaw hits the floor as you emerge onto the platform around the edge of the arena.
The Roman Forum – known in Italian as the Foro Romano – is a little different than the Colosseum. Unlike the Colosseum, which stands tall and intact (having been rebuilt and renovated over the years), the Roman Forum is mostly ruins.
Which makes it hard to understand what you’re looking at without a guide to help you decipher the difference between the Senate building and the Temple of the Vestal Virgins.
Palatine Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome, is just to the southwest and is accessible from within the complex (you’ll find one of the best views in Rome from the viewpoint at the top).
The majority of the important buildings in Ancient Rome were within walking distance of this historic meeting place.
Contrary to popular belief, while there is a temple dedicated to Julius Caesar here, he was actually not killed in the Forum, but over near Largo di Torre Argentina.
How to Visit the Colosseum and Roman Forum
Like I mentioned above, I have done the Colosseum and Forum four different times now – twice with a guided tour, twice on my own – and I can say without a doubt that the Colosseum and Roman Forum are best experienced with a guided tour.
Specifically, a guided tour with someone who knows what they’re talking about, which is exactly what you’re going to get with Walks of Italy.
We did this Walks of Italy tour on one of our most recent trips to Rome, and we were blown away by the knowledge, richness, and detail that our guide – Dario – brought to the experience for us.
He busted all sorts of myths that we had fully believed to be true, and was able to weave together a cohesive story throughout the three hour tour that had us engaged the entire time.
And keep in mind, we had both experienced it already more than once before!
We highly, highly recommend booking a guided tour for the Colosseum and Forum. If you only have time for one guided tour in Rome, this should be the one.
Especially because the Forum is really just a bunch of crumbled buildings on the surface, and you need the history and context from a guide to really kick your imagination into overdrive and envision how this area might have looked when it was the beating heart of the Roman Empire.
The view from the orange garden in Rome around sunset
You, of course, can visit independently. We would suggest purchasing the audio guide, or downloading the Rick Steves audio guide ahead of your visit.
You’re going to need at least three to four hours to do them both justice.
Afterwards, take a well-earned break and grab lunch, head back to the hotel and relax, and get ready for a late afternoon walk up to one of the best viewpoints in Rome. Post-nap, it’s time to get back out there and explore a bit more. This time, head to the Orange Garden, which is perched on a hill with great views of Rome and the Vatican.
Another worthwhile stop just a few hundred feet away is the keyhole (here on Google Maps), which is a now-Insta-famous spot where you can look through, well, a keyhole, that has the dome of the Vatican perfectly framed.
I say it’s Insta-famous, because if you’re here in peak season in the afternoon, you’re likely going to have to wait in line for the privilege of looking through said keyhole.
Aperitivo is a period during the late afternoon/early evening, between getting off work and dinner time (which is later than you’d expect in Rome) where people go out for drinks. And those drinks are served with a selection of small bites, like bruschetta, olives, and things like that.
If you’re American or Canadian, it’s a little like happy hour, except the food is complimentary with your drinks.
While the days of full-on aperitivo buffets are behind us, at least in most of Rome, the idea behind aperitivo is still one of our favorite parts about spending time in Rome.
During aperitivo, our drink of choice (and what you’ll see many people drinking) is the Aperol Spritz.
It’s a light cocktail – perfect for a summer day – that is made with sparkling water, sparkling wine (all of the bubbles, please!) and Aperol, an orange-colored bitter aperitif.
The spritz is usually 4-5 Euros (definitely don’t pay more than 6 Euros!), and is the quintessential aperitivo beverage to us.
I made the mistake of ordering a Campari Spritz instead, just to try it, and won’t be doing it again. It was fine, totally drinkable if you’re into bitter liqueurs like Campari, but it wasn’t nearly as refreshing. Anyway, after the orange garden, you’re in the perfect position to head to our favorite aperitivo spot in Rome – Zerosettantacinque – which is near where the Circus Maximus (a huge chariot racing track) used to be, which fits perfectly with the Ancient Rome theme of today. The location is great, the drinks are good, and they bring you a little selection of bites to go with your drinks (and have a bigger menu of food, if you’re still hungry).
Day 2: The Vatican, St. Peter’s Basilica, & Castel Sant’Angelo
On your second day, tackle the second world-famous attraction in Rome, the Vatican. Home to the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican is fascinating even if you’re not really religious.
It’s an impressive collection of art, with the crown jewel being the Sistine Chapel.
A word on fashion for this day, not because we want to make sure you’re as stylish as possible, but because the Vatican is a religious site. That means your shoulders and knees should be covered up, even if it’s blistering hot in the summer.
Otherwise you may not be able to enter certain parts of the complex, namely St. Peter’s Basilica.
But First, Coffee
Before your trip to the Vatican, head to Pergamino Caffè for some of the best coffee in Rome.
I’m a coffee lover, particularly if I get to choose which coffee is used to make my coffee, and this is the perfect place for that.
They have coffee roasters from all over Europe, heavily focused on Italian roasters, and will prepare you a cup of great coffee, whether you’re into lattes or filter coffee.
It’s on the south side of the Vatican, just around the corner from the main entrance to the Museums, which makes it a perfect spot pre-Vatican.
Another great option if you’re willing to walk a little bit further is LOVE Specialty Coffee and Croissants, which was my favorite discovery on my latest trip to Rome.
Their coffee – which uses some of my favorite roasters from around Europe – was excellent.
They also have delicious looking pastries, though they’re definitely not gluten free so I had to pass (and the barista couldn’t understand why I would possibly decline a croissant until I told her “sono celiaco”).
Arguably the most famous museum in the world makes its home in the collections of the Vatican. They show a whopping 20,000 pieces of art and culminate with the legendary Sistine Chapel, where the ceiling frescos bear the work of Michelangelo.
One contradiction that always pops up in the back of my mind when visiting huge, ornate churches has to do with the role of the church.
Why, you might ask, does an organization that preaches the Bible, which unequivocally condemns rich people who do not give away their wealth, have such an ornate and over-the-top display of wealth?
Great question to ask the Pope, if you run into him (or her, in case you’re reading this at a time when we’ve gotten a female pope).
As a religious site, I have questions about the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica. If you put those questions aside for a second and just consider it as a collection of art, it’s a pretty incredible display featuring a who’s who of Italian art history.
There are essentially two pieces – the Vatican Museums (which include the Sistine Chapel) and St. Peter’s Basilica.
You should visit both, and you should try to be either on the first or last entry slot of the day (obviously, the way we have it written would have you here for the first one of the day).
I’ve done the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s three separate times now, and each time has been slightly different. The first time, we did it independently. The second time, it was independently with an audio guide.
This last time, I decided that I wanted a guided tour to get a better understanding of the art I was looking at and the context around it, so I went with the “Pristine Sistine” tour with Walks of Italy, my favorite tour company in Italy.
It was a great tour, though it’s important to know that there is no scenario where you’re going to be in the Sistine Chapel without crowds, on a tour or not.
A few tips for visiting the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica:
- You must cover your knees and shoulders inside St. Peter’s Basilica (it’s a Catholic church after all), so leave the short shorts and tank tops at home for this day, otherwise they will not allow you to enter.
- There is no photo or video allowed inside the Sistine Chapel. Yes, there are guards. No, you shouldn’t try to sneak a photo. Be respectful!
- Book your tickets well in advance to get the earliest entry possible – they do sell out.
- It’s a lot of walking, including stairs. I clocked ~10,000 steps along the way, including several sets of stairs. If you have mobility restrictions, that might be a lot of moving around.
First of all, you’ll need to buy entry tickets for the Vatican Museums, while St. Peter’s Basilica is free to enter. For both, you’ll have to wait in the (sometimes long) security lines.
Buy tickets for the Vatican Museums here – toggle the site to English with the language selector in the top right.
You should book your tickets as soon as possible so that you have access to the 8am and 8:30am entry slots.
They go on sale 60 days in advance, and sell out within an hour if it’s peak season. You want those early entry times!
For the best experience, we’d recommend either picking the tickets that include an audio guide, or, even better, book a guided tour that includes a live guide.
If they are sold out, the first thing I would do before booking a tour is look at online resellers, who generally have more availability than going direct (though not unlimited availability).
If the first entry of the day is sold out, I would also consider the 4pm entry slot, which is another relatively quiet time to be in the museums (especially midweek).
If they are sold out, the first thing I would do before booking a tour is look at online resellers, who generally have more availability than going direct (though not unlimited availability).
Second of all, I would consider doing the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica on different days (or, alternatively, doing St. Peter’s in the morning and the Vatican Museums in the later afternoon).
The reason is that, by the time you’re done with the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, it will be around noon (maybe even later, depending on your pace). Which means you’re going to be waiting in the security line
I would recommend, if you have the time, getting to St. Peter’s Basilica at opening (currently 7:30am) on a different day for a much more relaxing experience, and for the fact that the light will be better if you choose to climb the Dome (plus fewer people in the narrow passageways).
If that sounds interesting to you, we’d just move St. Peter’s to first thing in the morning of the fourth day on this itinerary.
Lunch in Prati
After the Vatican and St Peter’s Basilica, head into Prati, the neighborhood immediately adjacent to the Vatican, for lunch.
This is the part of Rome that Alysha called home for six months in college (albeit a more residential part of the neighborhood a ways away from the Vatican), and it’s a little bit more upscale and family oriented than other parts of the city center.
However, despite being so close to a tourist attraction – which is usually a bad sign in terms of food quality and value – there are some truly outstanding places to eat here.
If you’re looking for the best pizza-by-the-slice in Rome, go to Bonci Pizzarium, a tiny hole-in-the-wall where you’ll find a daily selection of rectangular pizzas served in rectangular slices, which is different from what you might get in the US. Pizza toppings rotate all the time.
Castel Sant’Angelo
After lunch, make your way towards the river to Castel Sant’Angelo, which is a place that we ordinarily would have skipped, but found ourselves doing on day 8 or 9 because we had plenty of time to fit it in.
It was built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum, and then the Catholic Church grabbed it and turned it into a fortress. Today, it’s part art museum, part abandoned castle with some cool art installations inside.
It’s a bit expensive to get in – 14 Euros at the time of writing – but we enjoyed it. The best part, by far, is the terrace on top, which has a lovely view of the Vatican.
The view from atop Castel Sant’Angelo
The view from the other side of the bridge directly in front of Castel Sant’Angelo is also spectacular.
If you decide not to go inside, definitely make sure to head to the other end of that bridge (and give a firm “no, grazie” to all of the people trying to sell you various things as you cross the bridge).
Day 3: Self-Guided Centro Storico Walk + The Borghese Gallery
Today, pick yourself up out of bed as early as you can to make it to the Centro Storico before it’s flooded with tourists, then spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the Villa Borghese and taking in the most popular art museum in Rome – the Borghese Gallery.
Cap it off with a foodie experience a food walking tour
There are two places in the Centro Storico – specifically near the Pantheon – that I think are worth a stop on your early morning stroll for a taste of that Italian coffee experience.
Tazza d’Oro: A classic, this Italian roaster has a bar on a piazza next to the Pantheon that is almost always packed between the hours of 10am and 7pm. I went here twice over a couple of hours on my latest trip (I’ve probably been here five times across all of my trips to Rome) – once on my own, and once on a walking tour with a local who picked it when I said I wanted to experience espresso at the bar at his favorite place. You walk in, pay the cashier, take your receipt, and shoulder your way up to the counter to tell the barista what you want (pro-tip: you can order a ristretto or lungo, which you tell the barista at the bar).
Sant’Eustachio: Another spot that is just off the piazza where you’ll find the Pantheon. Walk past the tables outside (which are ridiculously expensive to sit at in terms of the price you’ll pay for the coffee) and head directly inside to order your coffee. The thing I like about Sant’Eustachio is that they serve their flagship “Gran Caffe” in an interesting way (it’s almost frothy, but I don’t think I’ve seen the barista use a frother of any kind), though it’s a closely guarded secret in terms of what, exactly they do. One thing I do know is that they’ve been serving the Gran Caffe for almost a century with sugar, and when you tell the barista what you want, they’ll ask you “con zucchero?” (with sugar). Most coffee purists will automatically say no, but after trying it both ways, I actually think the sugar makes it a more pleasant drink. And that’s how they designed it, after all, as the signs all over the bar tell you in Italian and English.
An Early Morning Self-Guided Walk of the Centro Storico
Follow a route roughly northeast from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, ending at Piazza del Popolo.
- Piazza Navona – This vast square is built atop an ancient stadium (hence the shape). It’s a pandemonium affair, with trattorias and wine bars spilling onto the uneven cobblestones. The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, no less) looks especially wonderful at night, as does the Fontana di Nettuno at the north end of the square.
- Campo de’ Fiori – A flower / produce market by day that also has some of the most tasteless souvenirs imaginable (don’t buy souvenirs here), this is a perfect spot to start your exploration of Rome’s city center.
- The Pantheon – Once a Roman temple, now a Catholic church, the Pantheon has a mighty imperial façade that was rebuilt in the 2nd century AD. The great rotunda inside has a hole in the roof that lets in a solitary beam of sunlight, sometimes illuminating the tomb of the revered artist Raphael. There can be huge lines to get in later in the day, another reason to get up early!
- Trevi Fountain – They say you’ll return to Rome if you throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain. Good luck getting close enough to do that. The spot is always packed with crowds, even early in the morning, but it’s still an iconic sight that’s famed for appearing in films like La Dolce Vita. Whatever you do, don’t eat nearby, where you’ll pay 50% more for 100% worse food.
- Spanish Steps – 135 steps of pure elegance await here. They’re an icon of Rome and link the Borghese Gardens to the Piazza di Spagna, where a gorgeous Baroque fountain by Pietro Bernini decorates the flagstones.
- Piazza del Popolo – Your final stop, this is where you’ll find the city’s oldest obelisk – the narrow tower in the middle of the square, inspired by the Egyptians – and the former northern gate of the city of Rome. However, the square isn’t nearly that old – it was actually designed in the 19th Century. Head up to the Terrazza del Pincio for an incredible view of the square and St. Peter’s Basilica.
The Borghese Gallery + Villa Borghese
Spend the afternoon exploring the best green space in the city – the Villa Borghese – and experiencing the only art museum (unless you count the Vatican Museums, I suppose) on this itinerary, the Borghese Gallery.
Tickets for the Borghese Gallery are notoriously hard to get because of the extreme limits on people allowed inside at a given time, so book your visit as early as possible. Only 360 people are permitted into this exclusive art gallery every day.
We recommend you pre-book tickets as soon as humanly possible so that you have a chance to experience what we think is the most interesting museum in Rome.
It might seem expensive, but you’ll get to experience masterpieces from Italian masters like Barberini, Caravaggio, and Raphael with all the context and details you’ll want to have to truly appreciate what you’re looking at.
However, if you only have the budget for one tour, I’d still do the Colosseum and Forum, which benefit the most from that added context and history (followed by the Vatican Museums + St. Peter’s).
We always do tours of art museums after some great experiences at the Prado Museum in Madrid and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, and highly recommend it if you’re, like us, not really an art gallery kind of person.
The stories behind the artists and paintings that an expert brings to the table really give you a deeper, richer experience, and help you focus on the important things in a huge museum full of amazing art.
The gallery holds a vast collection of some of the best paintings and sculptures from Italian masters like Barberini, Carvaggio, and Rapheal, all accumulated by the Borghese family.
They moved to Rome from Siena and became one of the city’s most prestigious families (not to mention wealthiest), which led to them commissioning and purchasing all sorts of art.
The gallery is relatively small, but it is PACKED full of beautiful pieces.
The museum is laid out over two floors, and one of the floors was actually closed for renovation when I was there last. However, after spending two hours with Anna, my Walks of Italy guide, on just the first floor, I’m not even sure how you would fit both floors into just a couple of hours.
I walked away more than satisfied, in awe of the emotional power of sculptures (something I don’t necessarily feel about paintings like I do about sculptures or other mediums like music). It’s wild to me how much emotion and movement can come out of what is essentially a carved up piece of rock.
I also love that sculptures have higher stakes than, say, paintings (with some exceptions). You can paint over a mistake in a painting with relative ease – not so in a sculpture!
One thing to note about the museum is that bags need to be checked (which is safe). Either plan on checking your bag, or leave the bag at home for this part of the day.
After the museum, if you choose to do it, spend some time walking through the Villa Borghese, which is a pretty magnificent green space in the heart of Rome.
Dive into Rome’s Food Culture with a Food Tour
Here are some food tours that caught our eye though, sadly, we also skipped these because of the whole gluten and cross-contact issue.
- Hidden Rome Food Tour in Trastevere with Dinner and Wine: Explore Trastevere – our favorite neighborhood in Rome – through the eyes of a local foodie. You’ll simultaneously taste amazing food from places that you wouldn’t have discovered on your own, and also get the background and context for how that food came to be a staple in Rome. Plus, wine and limoncello along the way! This tour combines the history and cultural aspects with great food, which is what we usually look for in a tour.
- Twilight Local Food and Hidden Places: A local born and raised, Selene and her team will take you on a tour-de-Rome’s best food. Along the way, you’ll learn about the history and culture of Rome. Followed by pizza al taglio and carbonara, among other delectable tastings. This tour covers the Centro Storico, mostly.
- Taste the Best of Rome (Evening Tour): This tour, which covers Prati, the neighborhood to the north of the Vatican, includes a tasting of meats and cheeses and the best pizza al taglio in Rome (which we already featured above in the Vatican section…). 25 tastings over four hours – so you’ll want to show up hungry! You’ll meander through Prati, stopping at five locally owned spots to try a variety of delicacies from truffles, to meats and cheeses, and more.
Day 4: Exploring Two of Rome’s Best Neighborhoods
On day four spend the day exploring two of Rome’s most interesting neighborhoods – the ever-popular Trastevere, full of bohemian charm with cobblestone streets and ivy-adorned buildings, and grittier Testaccio, which we like because it feels like real people actually live there (and the food scene is great, too).
A Morning Walk Above Trastevere
We think that Trastevere is best in the afternoon and evening, when the activity spills out into the cobblestone streets and charming piazzas.
The real reason to head to Trastevere in the morning is to tackle one of our favorite walks in Rome, which we sort of accidentally discovered on one of our last days in Rome on our latest trip.
The walk takes you up the hill behind Trastevere to Belvedere del Gianicolo – where you’ll find a great view over the city – and then back down the other side.
Along the way, there are some really good explanatory panels that describe the historical importance of this area during Italy’s struggle for independence in the mid-19th Century.
Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian general during the period immediately before the unification of Italy, is considered to be one of the most important figures in modern Italian history, and there was a battle on this hill above Trastevere that was key in establishing Italy’s independence.
Though, it should be said that the Italian Republic he fought to establish was short-lived, and came back under a new name and brand a decade or so later, which is what has remained to this day.
There’s a statue of him in the middle of the plaza at the Belvedere del Gianicolo.
Exploring Testaccio
A contrast from Trastevere and the rest of Rome’s historical center, the first thing we noticed about Testaccio is that it feels like real people live there.
A neighborhood that, 20 years ago (even less, really) was full of warehouses is today one of the best neighborhoods for foodies in Rome.
To get to Testaccio, grab the regional train from Roma San Pietro to Roma Ostiense, which should only take about 20 minutes and leaves you with a few minutes walking into the heart of the neighborhood.
It costs a couple of Euros per person – buy tickets from the machines at the station, and be sure to validate them before boarding the train.
The first thing to know about Testaccio is that it’s a great food neighborhood.
The food scene is centered around Mercato Testaccio, a big food market that’s roughly half stands selling produce, meat, and cheese, and half stands selling ready-to-eat food (plus some other stands selling random knick knacks and/or shoes). This is where you should have lunch.
It’s not overrun by tourists. It’s not wildly overpriced for what it is. It’s a place where locals go to shop and eat.
Here are some other places to check out in Testaccio:
- Tram Depot: A lovely outdoor spot to grab coffee and a pastry or two in the Italian sun. It’s a former tram, now refurbished and serving up good coffee to mostly locals (we were the only tourists there as far as we could tell).
- The Non-Catholic Cemetery: When Rome was still a devout Catholic city, the remains of protestant foreigners weren’t permitted to be buried in the regular cemeteries alongside the Catholic citizens. Instead a few non-Catholic cemeteries sprung up to accommodate them and the one in Testaccio is one of the most famous. Remains of Percy Shelley and John Keates can be found buried here. There are also some great views of the Piramide di Caio Cestio, an Egyptian-style pyramid in the middle of Rome, commissioned by a rich Roman guy in the 1st Century B.C.E. that still stands today.
- Volpetti Salumeria: A popular market selling all manner of meats, cheeses, preserves, baked goods, and wine. It is open everyday and perfect for grabbing picnic food to enjoy while exploring Rome. Mingle with the locals as they go about their daily shopping to purchase the ingredients used in real Italian cooking.
Don’t miss the Basilica Santa Maria, a beautiful church in the center of the neighborhood filled with gold mosaics by Cavallini. This is one of the prettiest and most underrated churches in Rome – though you wouldn’t really know it from the façade – so it’s a must see in this area.
The square in front of it is a meeting place of sorts so is an amazing place to sit and people watch by the fountain.
This was a nice and relaxing way to wrap up Jennie;s Rome tour. Frankly by that time her mother welcomed taking a load off.
Despite all of the site seeing, they did manage to find a beautiful wedding gown. Devon and Jennie had already purchased their wedding bands, so they were just about set. The church part was easy because Elena Lombardi, the Pope’s secretary, and Monsignor Thomas Bianchi, the master of ceremonies, made all the arrangements. Since the only family member attending the wedding was Jennie’s mother, there was no need for a big party. A simple meal at a nice restaurant would suffice.
The week before the wedding went by like a blur, before either Devon or Jennie knew it, the big day had arrived. Jennie was understandably quite nervous, afterall it wasn’t every day that you got married by the Pope in St Peter’s Basilica. Devon had arranged for a limousine to pick them up. When they arrived, they were greeted by several members of the Swiss Guard who acted as escorts for the small party. Since St. Peter’s Basilica was so popular that there were always plenty of worshippers attending the masses. This kind of gave the appearance that Devon and Jenny were having a large wedding. There was a side room off of the church, where Jennie and her mother were met by Elena Lombardi. She was there to help them prepare for the ceremony.
Once Jennie was ready, she was escorted to the alter by Monsignor Thomas Bianchi, where Devon and the POPE!!!! We’re waiting patiently for her. Since the Pope only rarely performed weddings, the cathedral was packed with people, which only served to make Jennie even more nervous. Somehow, she managed not to trip and make a fool of herself as she walked to alter. The Monsignor sensing her trepidation was very conciliatory and attentive towards her. His empathetic behavior helped to calm her somewhat.
With a trembling Jennie and somewhat waxen faced Devon, standing before the Pope, the ceremony commenced.
The ceremony is described in detail below:
Introductory Rites
Entrance Rite
The assembly stands. The assembly stands. The entrance song is sung while the priest, ministers (e.g., lectors, altar servers), and the wedding party take their places in the sanctuary (near the altar). The Pope and servers in vestiments proper to the liturgy greet the bridal party at the door of the Church then all enter in procession as is customary for a Mass (the ministers go first, followed by the priest, then the bride and bridegroom, proceeded byJennie’s mother and the two witnesses). Now, let us pray… Father, you have made the bond of marriage a holy mystery, a symbol of Christ’s love for his Church. Hear our prayers for N. and N. With faith in you and in each other, they pledge their love today. May their lives always bear witness to the reality of that love.
We ask you this through our Lord Jesus Christ, your Son, who lives and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit, one God, forever and ever.The pope leads the assembly in the sign of the cross after the entrance song is finished. The Pope invites the congregation to be seated; Chairs or specified seating should be provided for all in the wedding party, facing the altar.
Greeting
The pope: “In the name of the father, and of the son, and of the holy spirit.”
Assembl responds “Amen”
Gloria
The Gloria is sung, preferably by the whole assembly. (The Gloria is the hymn that begins, “Glory to God in the highest…”)
(Pope) “Grace to you and peace from God our father and the Lord Jesus Christ.” [Assembly responds “And with your spirit.”]
Opening Prayer)
(Pope) “Be attentive to our prayers, O Lord, and in your kindness uphold what you have established for the increase of the human race, so that the union you have created may be kept safe by your assistance. Through our Lord Jesus Christ, your Son, who lives and reigns with you in the unity of the Holy Spirit, one God, forever and ever.
First Reading (Pope) “A reading from the book of Genesis 1:26-28: Then God said: ‘Let us make man in our image, after our likeness. Let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, the birds of the air, and the cattle, and over all the wild animals and all the creatures that crawl on the ground.” God created man in his image; in the image of God he created him; male and female he created them. God blessed them, saying: “Be fertile and multiply; fill the earth and subdue it. Have dominion over the fish of the sea, the birds of the air, and all the living things that move on the earth.” God looked at everything he had made, and he found it very good. The word of the Lord.’
At the conclusion of the reading, the lector says, “The Word of the Lord,” and the assembly responds, “Thanks be to God.”
Resonsorial Psalm
The cantor or choir sings a psalm, and the assembly sings the response.
Second Reading
(Pope) “A reading from the New Testament, 1 John 4:7-12: Dear friends, let us love one another, for love comes from God. Everyone who loves has been born of God and knows God. Whoever does not love does not know God, because God is love. This is how God showed his love among us: He sent his one and only Son into the world that we might live through him. This is love: not that we loved God, but that he loved us and sent his Son as an atoning sacrifice for our sins. Dear friends, since God so loved us, we also ought to love one another. No one has ever seen God; but if we love one another, God lives in us and his love is made complete in us. The word of the Lord.”At the conclusion of the reading, the lector says, “The Word of the Lord,” and the assembly responds, “Thanks be to God.”
Gospel Acclamation
The assembly stands. A cantor leads the assembly in singing the Gospel Acclamation, usually the Alleluia (except during Lent, when another acclamation is used).
Gospel
The pope proclaims the Gospel. At the conclusion, he says, “The Gospel of the Lord,” and the assembly responds, “Praise to you, Lord Jesus Christ.” The assembly sits.
Third reading (the Gospel) (Pope) “A reading from the Gospel, Matthew 5:13-16: You are the salt of the earth. But if the salt loses its saltiness, how can it be made salty again? It is no longer good for anything, except to be thrown out and trampled underfoot. You are the light of the world. A town built on a hill cannot be hidden. Neither do people light a lamp and put it under a bowl. Instead they put it on its stand, and it gives light to everyone in the house. In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.” (All respond) “Praise to you, Lord Jesus Christ.” Assembly is seated.
Homily
The pope ) “John 3:30 says ‘He must increase, but I must decrease.’ Those simple, direct words of St. John the Baptist, whose feast we celebrate today, summarize the life of the Christian disciple. In all things, we want Jesus to increase and our own will, our own desires, our own attachments, to decrease. In my heart, in my prayer, in my family, in my parish, in my work, in my study, in my leisure, in my entertainment – may the Lord Jesus increase!” According to The Order of Celebrating Matrimony, the presider “uses the sacred text to expound the mystery of Christian Marriage, the dignity of conjugal love, the grace of the Sacrament and the responsibilities of married people, keeping in mind, however, the circumstances of this particular marriage”.
The Celebration of Matrimony
All stand, including the couple and the witnesses, who are positioned near them, the Pope addresses the couple in these or similar words:
Dearly beloved, you have come together into the house of the Church so that in the presence of the Church’s minister and the community your intention to enter into Marriage may be strengthened by the Lord with a sacred seal. Christ abundantly blesses the love that binds you. Through a special Sacrament, he enriches and strengthens those he has already consecrated by Holy Baptism, that they may and your love be enriched with his blessing you, so that you may have strength to] be faithful to each other for ever and assume all the responsibilities of married life. And so, in the presence of the Church, I ask you to state your intentions.
Address and Statement of Intentions
All stand, including the bride and groom and witnesses. The pope asks the couple questions to state their intentions about their freedom of choice, fidelity to each other, and the acceptance and upbringing of children (unless the couple are beyond the child-bearing years). The bride and groom respond to each question separately “I have” or “I am.”
The Questions before the Consent
The Pope
Devon and Jennie, have you come here to enter into Marriage without coercion, freely and wholeheartedly?
The bridegroom and bride each say: I have.
Are you prepared, as you follow the path of Marriage, tolove and honor each other for as long as you both shall live?
The bridegroom and bride each say: I am.
Are you prepared to accept children lovingly from God and to bring them up according to the law of Christ and his Church?
The bridegroom and bride each say: I am.
Consent
The pope invites them to declare their consent to be married, which they do by stating their marriage vows. The presider affirms the reception of the consent then leads the assembly in an acclamation which may be sung.
Since it is your intention to enter the covenant of Holy Matrimony, join your right hands, and declare your consent before God and his Church.
They join their right hands.
The bridegroom says:
I, Devon, take you, Jennie, to be my wife. I promise to be faithful to you, in good times and in bad, in sickness and in health, to love you and to honor you all the days of my life.
The bride says:
I, Jennie, take you, Devon, to be my husband. I promise to be faithful to you, in good times and in bad, in sickness and in health, to love you and to honor you all the days of my life.
The Reception of Consent
Receiving their consent, the priest says to the bride and bridgegroom:
May the Lord in his kindness strengthen the consent you have declared before the Church and graciously bring to fulfillment his blessings within you. What God has joined, let no one put asunder.
May the God of Abraham, the God of Isaac, the God of Jacob, the God who joined together our first parents in paradise, strength and bless in Christ the consent you have declared before the Church, so that what God joins together, no one may put asunder.
The Pope invites those present to praise God: Let us bless the Lord.
All reply: Thanks be to God.
Another acclamation may be sung or said.
Pope: Bless and sanctify your servants
in their love, O Lord,
and let these rings, a sign of their faithfulness,
remind them of their love for one another.
Through Christ our Lord.
Response: Amen.
The Pope sprinkles the rings, as the circumstances so suggest, and gives them to the bride and bridegroom.
The husband places his wife’s ring on her ring finger, saying, as the circumstances so suggest:
Jennie, receive this ring
as a sign of my love and fidelity.
In the name of the Father, and of the Son,
and of the Holy Spirit.
Likewise, the wife places her husband’s ring on his ring finger saying, as the circumstances so suggest:
Devon, receive this ring
as a sign of my love and fidelity.
In the name of the Father, and of the Son,
and of the Holy Spirit.
The Blessing and Giving of Arras
The Pope says: Bless, O Lord, these arras that (Devon) and (Jennie) will give to each other and pour over them the abundance of your good gifts.
The husband takes the arras and hands them over to his wife saying:
(Jennie), receive these arras as a pledge of God’s blessing and a sign of the good gifts we will share.
The wife takes the arras and hands them over to his wife saying:
(Devon), receive these arras as a pledge of God’s blessing and a sign of the good gifts we will share.
Then a hymn or canticle of praise may be sung by the whole community.
The Pope says: “You may now kiss the Bride”
The Universal Prayer
The Universal Prayer, sometimes referred to as the Prayer of the Faithful or General Intercessions, is read by a lector, cantor, or another designated person. The reader usually offers each intercession (“For …, we pray to the Lord.”) and the assembly responds with an appropriate response, such as, “Lord, hear our prayer.” The Creed may also be said, especially if celebrated within a Sunday liturgy
Liturgy of the Eucharist
Presentation and Preparation of the Gifts
The assembly sits and sings the Offertory Song while the altar is prepared and the gifts of bread and wine are brought to the altar. According to The Order of Celebrating Matrimony the bride and groom may bring these gifts forward. When the priest says, “Pray, brethren (brothers and sisters), that my sacrifice and yours may be acceptable to God, the almighty Father,” the assembly stands.
Sanctus “Holy, Holy”
Memorial Acclamation
Great Amen
Communion Rite
The Lord’s Prayer
The assembly prays or sings together the Lord’s Prayer (the Our Father).
Nuptial Blessing
The couple kneels at their place or approaches the altar where the preist faces them . the priest invites all present to join in silent prayer for the couple then extends his hands over the bride and groom and offers the blessing. The Order of Celebrating Matrimony provides options for the nuptial blessing, including beginning with the blessing and placing of the lazo (veil) if customary.
Sign of Peace
The presider invites the assembly to offer one another a sign of peace. The newly married couple and people in the assembly exchange a sign of peace (a handshake or kiss, usually accompanied by the words, “Peace be with you”) with those immediately around them.
Lamb of God
The pope breaks the host (Eucharistic bread) while the assembly sings the “Lamb of God.” The assembly usually kneels when the song concludes.
Communion
The priest (often with the help of Extraordinary Ministers of Holy Communion) distributes the Body and Blood fo Christ to Catholics in the assembly, beginning with the newly married couple. An appropriate song is usually sung as the assembly proceeds to the altar for communion.
Cocluding Rite
Blessing
The presider prays a solemn blessing over the married couple and the whole assembly. All participate in the blessing by repeatedly responding, “Amen.” This blessing may be sung. The ritual text indicates the witnesses may sign the marriage license in front of the assembly, though never with the license on the altar.
Dismissal
As with any Mass, the presider dismisses the assembly with an exchange like “Go in peace to glorify the Lord with your life” to which all gathered respond “Thanks be to God.”
Recessional
A recessional, or closing procession, is a natural way to conclude the eremony. Though it is not specified in The Order of Celebrating Matrimony, the couple, the bridal party, the ministers, and the presider process out of the church, usually accompanied by a festive song or instrumental music. Music suggetions for the wedding procession offer suitable options. Depending on local custom, the priest may invite the couple to exchange a kiss before leaving the sanctuary.
After the wedding was over the Pope spent a few moments, (all the time he could spare) with the newly married couple (Clarice sat this one out since she did not speak Italian, Elena who spoke fluent English kept her company), exchanging small talk, (possible now due to the fact that Devon and Jennie now spoke fluent Italian. When they had finished their short visit, both Devon and Jennie thanked the Pope profusely for the ceremony. The swiss honor guard acted as escorts as they were guided back to their waiting limousine. The limo took them back to their apartmant so that Jennie could change into something more comfortable. They then took their SUV to their restaurant and finally they finished up their evening by taking Jennie’s mother to the Opera da Camera di Roma.
It was an evening concert featuring classical music, operatic arias, and Neapolitan folk songs in the center of Rome. With this pre-booked ticket, reserve your seat to this popular performance in advance to avoid disappointment. Relax to the sounds of pieces by beloved Italian composers including Verdi, Puccini, and Vivaldi presented by the Opera da Camera di Roma’s professional company of tenors and sopranos, all accompanied by a grand piano. Highlights included arias from “La Traviata” and Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons.”
By the time the evening was over they were all exhausted, so they crashed and slept in. The following morning was Jennie’s mother last day in Rome, so they took it easy and just spent time getting acquainted and relaxing. They went out for a nice lunch and dinner later in the evening. Devon was starting to more comfortable calling his mother-in-law Mom now. It would be a little while before it became second nature for him. Devon was now on his voacation so he was able to spend the whole day with them.
They made an early night of it because Mom had an early flight back home. After they dropped her off to the airport, Devon and Jennie were going to start their honeymoon. They had planned a trip to the Greek Island of Corsica. They were going to spend a week there just soaking up the sun and enjoying the fresh air and outdoors. Since I spent so much time regaiing the reader with Rome, I won’t spend that much time with the newly weds honeymoon. After all they spent a lot of time in bed and enjoying room service, wink wink.
Corsica is 112 miles long at its longest and 52 miles wide at its widest. It has 620 miles of coastline with 200 beaches. It’s home to the world-famous GR 20 Trail and has over 120 summits.
Choosing which towns to visit on an island with 650 miles of coastline is challenging.
PORTO-VECCHIO
Porto-Vecchio is a harbor town in southeast Corsica. Its focal point is Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, a 19th-century church tower. Beside the church, an old-fashioned merry-go-round slowly rotates, delighting children.
Boutiques, wine shops, and restaurants are abuzz on the piazza. The heartbeat of Porto-Vecchio is palpable. A lovely introduction to Corsican life.
BONIFACIO
Bonifacio towers over the southernmost tip of Corsica. Its sculpted chalk-white limestone cliffs plunge dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. These imposing sea walls are part of what makes Bonifacio one of the most popular places to visit in Corsica.
Bonifacio is as picturesque as it is historical. The Staircase of King Aragon sits 200 feet above the sea. It was built in 1420 to access a freshwater well.
PATRIMONIO
Patrimonio is considered Corsica’s best-known wine region. Our drive through Patrimonio reveals patterns of terraced vineyards in the foreground and Saint Florent Bay in the background. It’s a spectacular setting to sample the wines of the region. As an added bonus, it requires no death-defying roads.
THE LAVEZZI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO
The Lavezzi Islands Archipelago, in southern Corsica, is just a few miles from Bonifacio’s formidable limestone walls. Accessible only by boat, it’s an aquatic playground for divers and snorkelers alike.
Some islands are quiet, with gigantic granite boulders that break the water’s glassy surface. Coral reefs are chock full of colorful schools of fish.
Other islands are a party on the sea with tranquil, waist-deep water. This creates a pop-up pool party atmosphere that is impossible not to enjoy. Think bikini-clad (and yikes, Speed-O-clad) people dancing on boats, in-water volleyball games, and colorful inflatable rafts floating on the placid Mediterranean Sea.
LES BERGERIES DE PALOMBAGGIA
Les Bergeries de Palombaggia, in Porto-Vecchio, is a Relais & Chateaux property seven miles from Sardinia. This Italian island’s silhouette provides a never-ending and beautiful backdrop to our stay. Grazie, Italia.
Life at Les Bergeries centers around its inviting infinity-edged pool. The views at sunset, when the sky mirrors the sea, are especially spectacular. Palombaggia Beach is a short, convenient, and pretty walk from the hotel.
The sea air is filled with the aromatic herbs of the maquis. Les Bergeries’ old terra cotta roof tiles have faded to rich hues of sienna and mocha. I spot olive trees with silvery sage leaves and vibrant green umbrella pines. Les Bergeries’ color palette is as French as it gets. The overall vibe is ‘low-key fancy’—my favorite kind.
HIGHLIGHTS Breakfast with locally made jams, crêpes, brioches, and traditional Fiodone (Corsican cheesecake) / La Table de Mina’s poolside dining patio at sunset / Suites with hydrangea-filled balconies overlooking the pool and sea.
My brief tour of Corsica just scratched the surface, Devon and Jennie could have easily spent two full weeks there. Finally their honeymoon drew to close. They returned home and returned back their normal life, now as married couple. Jennie resumed her studies and eventually got admitted to Facoltà di Giurisprudenza – Università di Roma Tor Vergata. Unlike in the US, the law degree program in Italy was five years long. Since Jennie was not a citizen yet, she had to modify her visa to a student visa. Since the program was way over the 90 limit she had to apply for a residency card or a permesso di soggiorno. Since Devon was a Gendarmerie and had contacts in the Vatican, her application was fast tracked. Devon also applied for a residency card, which was of course granted.
I now I am going fast here, but in my defense this book was not supposed to be an indepth telling of Devon and Jennie’s life together. I kind of got off course a little. Needless to say Devon really enjoyed his new career, and he engaged in a lot of interesting activities, some he could tell Jennie about and others he was sworn to secrecy. Jennie was understanding on this matter, she knew from the get go that there was always going to be that auroa of secrecy surrounding Devon. Maybe that is one of the things that attracted him to her.
The next year went by very smoothly for the couple they were now fully acclimated to the country. Though it would be over eight years before they could become Italian citizens, there was after all a 10 year requirement. They were both young and in no hurry. They had no way of knowing that their idyllic life together was going to come to an abrupt end, as Devon’s past finally caught up to him. It is with a heavy heart that I am now going to have to leave the loving couple and re-enter the underworld of trafficking.